Swapper3D Instructions

Update the printer to accept the Swapper3D (Prusa i3 MK3)

Disconnect the printer power


Cut case


Using a pair of side cutters, Cut the plastic on the Einsy case over the stepper drivers.

Warning!! Always wear safety glasses when using side-cutters. They can cause the cut piece to fly like a projectile!

Add heatsinks


Stick the heatsinks on the back of the einsy board over where the XYZE stepper drivers are

Add fan


  1. To insert a zip tie into the top left vent hole, Hold a zip tie in you left hand
  2. Insert that zip tie into the gap
  3. Hold a second zip tie in your right hand
  4. Using the left zip tie as a ramp, push the right zip tie up the ramp so that it wraps around the vent hole
  5. Repeat this process for the zip tie in the lower right vent hole
  6. slip the fan on with one zip tie in the top left hole and one zip tie in the bottom right hole of the fan.
  7. Cinch the zip ties tight
  8. Using side cutters, and while wearing safety glasses, cut the extra length of zip tie off.

Attach Swapper3D power wire


  1. Unscrew the one(1) einsy case screw (pink arrow)
  2. lay the printer on its side
  3. open the einsy case
  4. using a Philips head (+) screwdriver, unscrew the positive and negative wire terminals (blue arrows in picture) by turning their screws counter-clockwise; Loosen, but DO NOT REMOVE the screw terminal screws.
  5. Attach the red power wire to the einsy board positive screw terminal
  6. Attach the black power wire to the einsy board negative screw terminal
  7. Using a piece of tape, Label the plug end of the power wire ‘PWR’
Note: the red and black wires will have to share the screw terminals with the existing power wires.

Attach fan power wire


  1. Connect the red fan wire to the positive of the einsy board
  2. While holding the red fan wire under the screw terminal, tighten the screw terminal
  3. Connect the black fan wire to the negative of the einsy board
  4. While holding the black fan wire under the screw terminal, tighten the screw terminal
  5. Stand the printer upright
  6. Close the einsy case
  7. Tighten the one(1) einsy case screw

Note: the wires will share the same screw terminals as the last wires. Just make sure the bare wire ends are trapped under the screw terminals when you tighten them.

Add feet


  1. Using a 3mm hex drive, Remove one of the screws at the back left corner of the printer (see picture describing which side of the printer is which)
  2. Attach the foot to the printer with that one screw
  3. Then remove the other 3 screws from that corner
  4. rotate the foot to align the holes
  5. Insert the remaining 3 screws
  6. tighten the screws
  7. Repeat for the back right corner of the printer
  8. Remove the 2 screws from the left side of the plastic LCD holder and the bottom screw only from the right side
  9. rotate the LCD up and out of the way
  10. Add the left foot as per the previous feet
  11. rotate the LCD back into position and screw the top left side bezel screw back in
  12. remove the top right screw from the lcd bezel
  13. Rotate the LCD bezel out of the way
  14. Add the front right foot as per the process of the previous feet
  15. rotate the lcd back into place
  16. screw the lcd screws back on

Note: It may be eaiser to turn the printer on it’s side for some steps. Don’t rest the weight of the printer on the plastic LCD bracket.

Tie up the wires


  1. Make sure the extruder (Z axis) is in the center of the Z height. You can gently press down on the X axis smooth shaft to lower the extruder (see picture).
  2. Flip the printer upside-down
  3. Zip tie the Swapper POWER wire only to the frame as per the pictures. The zip ties go around the PWR wire and the other wires that were already zip tied to the frame. Leave the original printer zip ties in place.
  4. While wearing safety glasses, use side cutters to trim the ends off the new zip ties.
  5. Stand the printer upright

5 thoughts on “Swapper3D – Instructions – Update the printer to accept the Swapper3D (Prusa i3 MK3)”

  1. The feet provided won’t work for me. I still am using Threaded Rods vs Aluminum Extrusion. Aluminum Extrusion only started becoming available via the MK3 and beyond, the MK2 (which is my machine) uses threaded rods for the frame.

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